You might speak to the builder about that tomorrow. Yes, the CH is a bit low for new plaster. The COVID-19 Statistics Report is updated each week on Wednesday after 2:00 p.m.Don't worry about your TA right now. The instructions on test strips typically looks something like this: Dip a strip into the water, but don’t just let it soak, dip it and pull it out.The COVID-19 Update is updated after 2:00 p.m. Testing with pool water test strips is the least expensive option when deciding to test your pool's salinity and other chemistry levels such as pH, alkalinity and chlorine.
Use a floater for tabs.You can either use test strips or a test kit to test your water. If the tabs are still in the skimmer, remove the right away - not a safe place. ZeroWater’s 5-stage filter with a rated capacity of 20 Gallons and Brita’s 2-Stage Standard Filter with a rated capacity of 40 Gallons were tested in accordance with. So let's wait and see.1 Test results based on NSF/ANSI testing standards of pour through devices as performed by Quality Filter Testing Laboratory, LLC, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, an independent ISO 17025 laboratory certified by ANAB.
Once you have stabilizer in the water, keep the FC and CYA balanced together as noted on the FC/CYA Chart to avoid algae.After a couple weeks, we can come back and look at your TA. The sun should take some of the excess FC today unless you have storms like we do. Tabs will increase CYA, but it's slow and you will need more starting Tuesday.Right now your biggest focus is keeping the FC level around 3 ppm. But once you hit that day 3 mark, speak to the builder about increasing the CYA to around 40-50 to help protect the chlorine from the sun.
If you have any other questions let us know.Click to expand.Thank you so much Splash. Acid and chlorine don't not play nice together, so don't add them at the exact same time - separate by about 5-10 minutes with good water circulating which is plenty of time. Once you increase the CYA, you'll need to keep the FC balanced a little higher as well as noted on the FC/CYA Chart.So for now, keep the FC elevated as required on the chart to avoid algae, and lower the pH to about 7.8 with muriatic acid. If you aren't sure about that, let us know. I would increase the CYA by about 20 ppm to get you closer to 40 or 50 for now.
I talked to the builder and he said "the plaster cures for 30 days and brushing helps." However, it has been 9 days since filling the pool, and it hasn't changed (please see the photo). I noticed the color of some areas in my plaster is different (it is lighter color). However, my question is: should the SWGC be on while my pump is running? Here is the photo I took from my SWGC which shows it is on. I know that I shouldn't add salt for the first 30 days and should manage the pool as non-salt. I am wondering if I should stick with this schedule (I mean running the pump continuously every day for 11 hours)? After filling my pool, the builder programmed my pool and since then the pump is running every day from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Friday morning) to check the color. He came back the morning after (i.e. He brushed the pool and said that we should wait until the next day.
Two, get some liquid chlorine at Walmart (in the pool supplies section) or even Leslies (Leslies stores near me are very proud of their 12.5% chlorine, though.) Problem with supermarket bleach (I shop HEB and Kroger) is many have additives you don't want, and many others are either low chlorine, or there is no chlorine % on the bottle at all, or just the word "Concentrated" and that probably means 6%. You can get a 13.5 lb bag of baking soda at HEB for probably what you'd pay for 5 lb of "Alkalinity Up" or similar "pool chemical". Couple of things from someone in the Houston area.
Get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and test your water before you add salt. And don't forget what Splash said about tablets in the skimmers. Don't use dry acid, as Pentair specifically warns about that has bad for the IC-40. I see you're using muriatic acid. Like Covid, I'd much rather prevent algae than cure it. My neighbor two doors down was casual about his new pool and had algae just three weeks after filling.
I picked up a couple bags of Morton Pool Salt at HEB each time I went, until I thought I had enough, but I added just one or two at a time until the K-1766 showed 3600, before turning on the IC40. Before I put the first bag of salt in my pool, the salt was at 1200 ppm, just from my use of liquid chlorine.
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